Who: Paul Costelloe What: A revisit to Costelloe’s signature tailored pieces, but this time, with a twist of metallic tweed. Thoughts: Although the crazy flame haired models proved a step too far in the barnet department for us, Costelloe’s autumn collection, on the other hand, is very impressive. With tailored two-piece skater skirt suits and others with slim silhouettes, metallic tweed stitching, geometric prints, mustard sharp-collared dresses, blush A-line jackets, burnt orange flared skirts, nude patent pumps and a vibrant earthy colour palette formed a quaint and classic collection reminiscent of the Sixties from this iconic British label. There was certainly plenty to keep our eagle-eyes busy, and it’s a definite show-stopper this autumn. Image credit
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Become a London Fashion Week reporter with MFL!
This competition is now closed. Love fashion? Love writing? Live near London? This could be your lucky day. We’re looking for two budding writers to become fashion week reporters for us during London Fashion Week this February (18th – 23rd), where you’ll get exclusive access to the hottest shows, secure backstage interviews with designers, and get all the gossip as it happens on the cobbles of Somerset House. If you think your show reports can rival ours and want the chance to prove it, email your best writing sample to comps@my-lifemedia.com by this Friday, 11th February. We’ll be picking our two favourite pieces from your entries, the writers of which will get to join us as reporters for a week of fashion-filled fun! Time to get writing – good luck! Competition ends at midnight on Friday, 11th February 2011.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS11: Kinder Aggugini
A travel book called ‘Travels in the Interior Districts of Africa’ inspired Kinder Aggugini’s collection. With the animal tusk framed catwalk set up and a soundtrack that screamed Out of Africa. The first model strutted down the catwalk. Following a safari theme the first look out was a double-buckled kilt and white blouse that opened to reveal a thick tribal black neckpiece. It then continued onto Linen trousers and jackets with raw edges and shirt dresses with patch pockets. As the show went on keeping to the Africa theme the designs reached a more tribal feel with lots of silk draped dresses and bright vibrant prints. With nipped in waists and cowl necklines some dresses had been cut to look as if they had literally been knotted together giving it all a very elegant element. It then got a bit into evening wear with black dresses containing lots of fringing with hints of animal print here and there. But our favourite was the stunning floaty maxi dresses. With splits in the middle, at the front, showing lots of leg and revealing brightly patterned lining’s that clashed beautifully with the original tie-dye print. Accessories followed the African theme – including oversized leather hoop earrings, graphic belts, stacked choker necklaces and chunky metal bangles. The eye turning headpieces (made by Stephen Jones) were the highlight of the show. The hats in the show were made from used cardboard boxes and newspaper giving the collection a quirky touch. To summarise, the great mix of eras and culture made the collection totally chic!
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS11: House of Holland screening
Saturday not only saw House of Holland’s Spring/Summer 2011 show, but also the launch of the new Blackberry Torch 9800- as promoted by Henry himself in an exclusive post-catwalk screening. My Fashion Life, amongst other bloggers, were treated to a breezy Holland swanning into the upstairs room of his namesake pub (where he had his 21st birthday, apparently) an hour late, having gone for a stiff drink after the well-received show closed. Still, to be kept waiting by Henry isn’t too disheartening- as he’s soon delighting us all with his charm and fashion quips(apparently Aggy left his show stuffing a standout leaf motif jumpsuit into her bag). He quickly played us all a video of the show, and it’s clear Henry and his House of Holland girls are all growing up- there’s new silhouettes in the form of flared trousers and razor sharp pleated skirts, and long line column dresses a la Aggy’s new favourite look. Henry told us how the House of Holland consumer is more “cocktail party than squat party” these days, and that the Miami beach style collection, complete with marabou doughnut earrings and banana leaf prints, perfectly fits this glamourous transition. Of course she’s still as fun as ever- clips of Jaime Winstone bopping to the tunes on the front row gave a great context to Holland’s fringe overlays and curtain tassel accents strutting down the runway. We loved the metallic pleat skater peices, and batwing denim shirts- very accessible stuff from Mr Holland this year it seems. Greens, aquamarine, gold and purple all hinted at a disco vibe, and overall we were chuffed to get a sneak peak at the man (and team)’s work. “Me too, this is the first time I’ve seen it, “ he looks a tad bashful and nervous in his seat […]
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS11: Eun Jeong
This is a guest post by Tor Brierley, freelance journalist and blogger at FabFrocks. Fabfrocks is a fashion and style blog with one eye on the high street, and one eye on the high end wish-list it can’t really afford! Fabfrocks is updated daily. Now in her third season of showing at London Fashion Week, the S/S11 collection from Eun Jeong was inspired by the colours of summer: nudes, rose pinks, purples, and lime green. More exciting though was the foray into digital prints, which boldly adorned dresses. This is the first time Eun Jeong has added print to her collection, which was wearable, and full of whimsy. Models lingered moodily around the presentation area wearing the designs, and the collection made me think of a typical English summer: peeks at brightness (the lime green) followed by duller more overcast moments (blacks and nudes). The collection was also very feminine, and this was carried through to the presentation set, which resembled a lady-like vintage dressing room. A separate room of the presentation showed pieces in stark white, Eun’s signature colour, and these pieces really emphasised the feminine theme: ruffles, frills, and lace featured heavily. The key details of the collection however were the colours, the beautiful silk draping and nipped in waists, showing off the designers tailoring skills. Sleeves of all lengths and shaped also featured heavily in the collection; another nod to the unpredictability of the English summer, perhaps? My key pieces from the collection were the series of silk leggings made from the same digital prints as some of the most show stopping dresses. Also noteworthy were the one-shouldered white ruffled dress and the floor length nude satin gown. Eun Jeong won the 2008 Fashion Fringe at Covent Garden, and looking at this collection it’s easy to see […]
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS11: Twenty8Twelve
Sienna and Savannah Miller took their label Twenty8Twelve back to its roots for Spring/Summer 2011. That would be 2007 then ladies..right? Apparently not. According to the show press release, Twenty8Twelve is actually rooted in 1950’s Americana and it’s romantic spirit of travel- as captured in the Jack Kerouac novel ‘On The Road.’ There was indeed something quite fanciful about the girls seen on the London catwalk. Denim skater shirts and ruffled high neck blouses formed a Western basis for our travelling bohemian (incidentally, all the models were Sienna identikits) where cotton and crochet underlays swirled below. Prints were supposed to be eclectic, with maxi dresses having an Aztec vibe, and scattered through the collection as if sourced from global trips ad hoc. The eclectic mix of looks worked- but perhaps not as the clear concept Miller and Miller intended. McCartney-esque loose knit shifts and high waisted culottes were more urban basics than ethnic warrior, but the collection appeared all the better for it. A lime lace shift dress was gorgeous to see (if a little unexpected), and some of the scalloped micro shorts and waistcoat dresses were well constructed. Sienna and sis are definitely experimenting with more techniques these days- as fringing, ruffles and asymmetry all perked up simple body con dresses and button through shirts. Colours were wholly muted, with khaki, denim blues and dusty creams mixed in with white and the odd burst of lemon. Twenty8Twelve scored London footwear label Gina as an official Spring/Summer partner, and the glitter bow heels and sandals were exactly the fun flippant pairing the girls wanted. As we sat watching a media scrum erupt over Pixie Geldof on the front row (she got even more attention than Jude!), and thinking about the cupcakes we spied by the door, we had no idea […]
Read MoreElizabeth Emanuel to return to London Fashion Week
Well what do you know, it seems London may be about to get the royal touch as Elizabeth Emanuel, who designed Princess Diana’s wedding dress with her then-husband David, gets set set to make a comeback at September’s London Fashion Week.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: the best bits
You may have noticed we’ve taken a back seat in this season’s London Fashion Week , but that doesn’t mean we haven’t been casting our eagle eye over the collections. Now that it’s well and truly over, let’s round up what we’ve seen , and loved , in London this season. Oh, the wonders of live streaming.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week welcomes size 14
Last season, Mark Fast caused a controversial ruckus when he used plus-size model Hayley Morely to open his spring show. This season, she’s back with a bang. And a bum.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week goes digital
Live updates and backstage tweets are things we’ve come to expect from Fashion Week, but London is taking the digital phenomena one step further, staging a live stream of all its catwalk shows come February.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Bernard Chandran
The Spring 2010 collection from Malaysian born Bernard Chandran was certainly a mixed bag. Fluid lines in soft, sheer fabrics made their way down the runway alongside familiarly structured pieces, identifying the broad spectrum of influences behind Chandran’s designs. In a backstage chat with MFL, the designer revealed that he gathers inspiration wherever he travels and likes to inject his own feminine glamour into traditional designs. Indeed, there was a definite nod to Chandran’s South East Asian origins with the adapted conical hat, block-heeled shoes, and simple bamboo print that kicked-off the impressive show.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Jasmine Di Milo
When Mohamed Al Fayed walked swiftly passed me to go and see his daughter’s presentation in the Portico Rooms of Somerset house, I desperately wanted to join him. Not because I didn’t have a ticket, but because I had already waited over 45 minutes in a tiny, overheated corridor to get there and the queue was not moving anywhere in a hurry.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Romina Karamanea
Kicking off Romina Karamanea’s third appearance at London Fashion Week was a short film, showing the image of a model snipping off her long, flowing locks into a blunt bob. Think of an eerie version of JPG’s MaDame advertisment and you get the the idea. Soon after, models strode down the runway in similarly rigid hairstyles, revealing Karamanea’s feminine and sporty dresses.
Read MoreMark Fast’s London Fashion Week Show Causes Plus-size Controversy
Mark Fast has sparked huge controversy after using plus-size models in his S/S10 collection at London Fashion Week. The Canadian designer known for his super tight body-con knitwear used three plus-size models from agency 12+ on Friday, as well as the usual stream of waif-life models. But not everyone in his team approved of the last-minute decision, which caused both his stylist and casting director to walk out. Oh dear, temper tantrum? Fast’s managing director Amanda May told the Telegraph there were creative differences with regards to the casting of those girls. There was a team change and we’re glad we stuck to our decision. Mark Fast wasn’t the only one to go against the grain at London Fashion Week; PPQ used exclusively black models in their line-up and the Sykes collection was presented on models up to the age of 70. Whilst we’d hardly call Fast’s svelt size 12 and 14 models ‘plus-size‘, we do think this change is really encouraging and applaud the designer on his step-away from skinny. [Images]
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: William Tempest
Hands up right now, I love William Tempest, and after being slightly disappointed with his ill fitting collection last season I was very excited to see his Spring/Summer 2010 offering. The catwalk was suitably packed but sadly started an hour late, however, it was worth the wait. Gorgeous structured dresses strutted down the catwalk in fabulous metallic grey and coral pink, yes that’s coral not peach. The graphic print pieces were gorgeous, and the floor length gown was truly breathtaking. The wetlook dresses were sexy yet beautiful, and the knee length version had a sensual low back. Tempest is the king of structure, and with his expert panelling he created figure hugging mini dresses and swimsuits. The bags were a new addition to his label, and they were wonderful. I am gushing, but I can’t help it, in my opinion William Tempest is the next Matthew Williamson. He understands a woman’s figure, he isn’t afraid of colour and has a great eye for texture and silhouette. This was a very smart range, perfectly finished and with a real flair. I didn’t feel that the jumpsuit worked as well as it should have done which was a shame. Overall though, William Tempest is definitely the one to watch and it’s only a matter of time before he is on schedule.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Jaeger London
This show had a very starry front row. Not only was Peaches Geldof, Jade Parfitt, Erin O’Connor and Tamsin Egerton there but David Walliams also put in an appearance. However it wasn’t any of these who caused the catwalk to fall into mass excitement, but instead it was the presence of fashion royalty. Yes Anna Wintour was there looking as polished as ever. But back to the clothes. This was a very seventies inspired collection, and was both wearable and stylish. The colour scheme was fabulous, I adored the postbox red and the mushroom shades, it was a collection very much for the city slicker. There were some great pieces, the playsuits were real winners and the pleated chiffon trousers were stunning. The harems felt a little out of place, I feel that we’ve moved on from this trouser shape. There was a glammed up utility feel with sequins featuring heavily, alongside metallic fabrics and bold monochrome. Culotte style shorts were paired with billowing blouses, long line blazers added a new dimension to the wardrobe staple and the knitted body which shouldn’t work really did. Some great key pieces could be found here, and the pictures don’t really do the collection justice. For this collection is about quality both in terms of textures and fabrics. The handbags are sure to be gracing the arms of the A list. Jaeger London does do some beautiful pieces, and some are very stylish and at times quirky pieces. It’s one of those collections that there’s something for everyone. So next Spring Summer will you be skipping a seventies inspired step?
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Mulberry
Mulberry put on a special show for their S/S10 collection, which was held in the grand Claridges. Inspired by Sofia Coppola’s ‘Virgin Suicides’ and Tim Walker’s photography, Mulberry gave us a “dreamy take on schoolgirl crushes and fairground iconography, sharpened with teen angst. That’s a statement and a half, but they sure lived up to it. Set up like a fairground dream, the space was decorated with pearlised candy-coloured balloons and carousel horses to really set the tone of the show , and we knew we were in for a treat. How refreshing to see a presentation so dedicated to the season it reflected. For S/S10, the most delicious colours mix with contrast prints and key accessories to create a season that’s sweet but full of attitude. Colour is key for Mulberry this season, mixing candy pinks and sweet shades with neutral nudes and vivid sun-bleached brights.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Avsh Alom Gur
Avsh Alom Gur’s Spring 2010 static installation was a busy affair and the fashion pack were eager to view Gur’s first solo collection since leaving the now defunct Ossie Clark earlier this year. After a short drinks reception, the curtain was drawn back to reveal a model wearing one of Gur’s latest creations. The black and white two-piece consisted of a sleeveless, loose fitting top and high waisted, wide leg trousers. Sat on a platform like the mannequins behind her, she handed out the 2010 lookbook before wandering the crowds and posing for photographs. Gur’s decision to use a model alongside his static collection was a smart move, as it breathed life into the outfit and allowed onlookers to imagine the fluidity of the fabric used in the designer’s other pieces.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Pierre Garroudi
I wasn’t sure what to expect from Pierre Garroudi but the invite did say ‘the most beautiful collection in London’. So I had high hopes especially from the intricate folds of fabric pictured on the invite card. Located underneath an arch were we could feel the trains rock the catwalk as the models passed, the collection screamed luxury and a sense of purity. The palette was predominately ivory with a scattering of cream, off white, and crisp white, which gave the collection a luxurious feel.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Bryce D’anice Aime
I was lucky to get a seat in this show as it was packed! People were standing on the ledges and overlapping each other on the runway benches. When the lights came up we were greeted with a beige body con dress with bold shoulder detail. The colours were neutral but had an undertone of shimmer that added to the space age feel. Strong shoulder jackets followed beige and black dresses and separates in the form of mesh body con miniskirts and sequin centre panels.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Ruth Green for Warehouse
To celebrate 25 years of the British Fashion Council and London Fashion Week, high street store Warehouse presented winner of the Warehouse Design Competition Ruth Green’s debut collection at 180 The Strand yesterday afternoon. The competition, which was launched alongside the British Fashion Council in June earlier this year, saw course tutors from many of the UK’s leading design courses, who are members of the British Fashion Council, submit the strongest portfolios from the graduation year. 10 finalists presented their collection to a panel of judges , including Grazia’s Style Director, Paula Reed, Chair of the British Fashion Council’s Development committee, Hilary Riva, and Warehouse Design Director, Lisa Byrne , for the chance to see their designs go into production and be sold in Warehouse stores across the country. Of course, the winner was Ruth Green, and boy what a deserving winner she is. Her six-piece collection , inspired by the works of Mark Rothko and the mixed media works of Kurt Schwitters, is a vision of bold colour and layered knitted fabrics. Collage work is an obvious influence to the young designer, who enjoys the visual aesthetic of seeing layered elastic against silks. Using different knitting techniques, Green’s collection uses a simple yet striking colour palette of red, black, beige and greys in patchwork and stripes to create what will become her signature look. Tight body-con dresses feature alongside pieces with cut-out detailing and layered tops, and Green has also designed knee-high footless socks to finish off the collection. Each piece, similar in style and design, features different versions and mixes of the same colour palette and patterns. Stand out pieces include a long-sleeved striped dress with cut-out detailing to the back, and a black and red one-sleeved dress. The collection went on sale in Warehouse stores on Tuesday, […]
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: David David
David David’s S/S10 presentation was a short and sweet affair yesterday in Romilly Street. The designer, who showcased his collection in a relaxed, intimate room, stayed true to David David form, offering a small contemporary collection of bright geometric prints and vivid colours. Despite Japanese geometry as a clear inspiration, the S/S10 collection was very British, and very London, if that can be such a thing. Designs ranged from wearable daytime pieces in the form of printed T shirts, simple cardigans and blazers through to more experimental lightweight dresses with his signature vivid patterns, shapes and well-placed cut-out detail, which afforded the dresses to be more fashion forward.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: John Rocha
When the show started the music that boomed out of the speakers really reflected the mood of the piece; romantic influence with a definite contempory vibe. The, models wore dresses that looked like feathers, ethereal feather-like head pieces, billowing fabrics that fell on their tiny frames in a floaty, flowing way, perfect for a hot summers day. Some garments had embellishments that were beautifully modest; sequins or large rock gems peeking out behind a layer of beautifully coloured fabric.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Mulberry after show party
Last night saw the exclusive Mulberry party at Claridges as the designer label celebrated it’s S/S10 London Fashion Week presentation. Hosted in the Ballroom at Claridges, the party’s decor drew inspiration from the S/S10 collection and featured the same pastel-pearl balloons and carousel horses that were used in the show, as well as having traditional fairground stalls, including hook-a-duck where guests could catch a Mulberry bag.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Matthew Williamson
Matthew Williamson made a much anticipated return to the London catwalks. And his Spring Summer look was clean, sexy and somewhat futuristic. Again shoulders were key and the colours were purples, hot pink, silver and flash of lime. The shoes very nearly stole the show, but then the dresses, the dresses really did do all the talking. The embellishment was stunning, encrusted shoulders, sequin dresses and mirrored detail. The dresses with the beaded shoulders really were the stuff of dreams. And why is Matthew Williamson such a success? For two reasons, one he taps into what women want, he seems to have a sixth sense for how we want to feel in a dress. Secondly he keeps it simple, there’s no over the top layering, no ridiculous accessories or pointless extras, and his collection is relatively small yet finely tuned. Yes he knows how to create a show, and despite the boiling hot room, it was a fabulous affair. I want to pick out key pieces but then I want it all. The silk jerseys were gorgeous as were the floor length gowns. I think for me the neon yellow dress was a serious highlight as was the silver sequin dress, which photographs don’t do justice. The only thing I didn’t like was the hair. The other shows have been sporting big hair, and I just think big hair feels much more on trend then slicked back. But as for the clothes, how can you fault them? Of course Matthew Williamson is not to everyone’s tastes and is a designer that splits opinion right down the middle. But there’s no denying that he is a beautiful designer with much to offer the fashion world. Will he come back next season? It seems unlikely so we’d better savour this fashion week […]
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Nicole Farhi
This show made me nervous, last season Nicole Farhi suddenly and dramatically reworked her standard style into something fresher, more cutting edge. It was exciting, and I wondered if she would continue this feel through into Spring Summer. Was it as strong as Autumn Winter? No. Was it a let down? No. This was not groundbreaking, and was reigned in somewhat. But it was a charming collection and had an optimistic feel to it. When I compare it to the last Spring Summer range it is a vast improvement, thankfully there was not a stripe to be seen, well almost. Instead pastels worked together in simple, clean lines. The prints were gentle and created a really casual look. Oversized chunky bangles added structure to the relaxed styles. The playsuits were without doubt the best pieces. They felt youthful, sassy and really wearable. It did however lack a certain punch. Nothing was wrong but nothing stood out so much that it caught your breath. It failed to grab me like Autumn Winter did. Although Farhi fans who may have been put off by last season will love this one. Spring Summer returns Nicole Farhi to her classic looks but in a much more fashion focused way. It will be exciting to see where next season takes us.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Betty Jackson
I don’t know if you’ve noticed but shoulders are in. And they will remain ‘in’ right through Spring Summer 2010 as well, Betty Jackson will make sure of it. Betty Jackson’s clothes always have her fingerprint clearly marked. You would know you were at a Betty Jackson show, but this is not a criticism. For if you love girlish charm, floral prints and strong silhouettes then you will adore Betty Jackson. This season saw a geek chic feel with big side parted hair, coloured pop socks and oversized glasses. It was eclectic playing with prints, textures and layers, and it was bright and breezy. The colour scheme of mint greens, ballet pinks and mustards worked well although the apricot and silver lame phase was a surprise. The knickerbockers were super sweet, and the short suit was lovely. Ruffles were the key detail and acted like mini ruffs and bustles. The squared off shoulders were a nice touch and the shoes were divine. Overall it was a very nice, very pretty collection, that had some great pieces. It might not have you grabbing for your credit card. But it is a show that may inspire you into working that vintage, geek-esque look. If you’re looking to invest make sure it’s in a shoulder piece as these were the strongest. Time to grab those shoulder pads ladies.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Ashish
Ashish can be a bit hit or miss. You see dresses you love and then they’re mixed in with strange jersey pieces or like last season crazy pom poms. This season was coherent, funky, and packed full of pieces you’d want in your wardrobe. Yes, the king of sequins pulled off a really rather good show. This is partly down to letting his fabulous dresses dominate. The feel was 90s Brit abroad, think visors, bum bags and sportswear. The clothes acted like post cards to home, with holiday inspired wear, there was Paris with the Mona Lisa and the Eiffel Tower. Italy was followed with Hawaii, then New York and Miami. The twist was spike studding, which embellished many of the pieces. These items along with the tie-dye denim helped break up the sequins, but let’s be honest you go to Ashish for the sequins. The cartoon style clouds were fabulous as were the flamingos. The sunset dress was my particular favourite and I loved that this felt like a true summer show. Even the beaded fringing, which transported me back to holidays as a child, left me similing. It was fun, humorous and felt very right. Sometimes fashion isn’t so much about creating cutting edge designs but rather tapping into a shared psyche. And after having done the 80s to death along with 60s and 70s it’s nice to have a vibrant vacation.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Kinder Aggugini
If Alice from Alice in Wonderland were ever to meet Coco Chanel then she may have ended up looking somewhat like Kinder’s creations. An unusual snakeskin print took centre stage alongside monochrome and ladylike tweeds. This was both sleek and girly with an air of eccentricity. Kinder is without doubt a very talented designer. His cuts are clean, smart and elegant, they look finished, and finely executed. The bright splashes of colour kept the line summery, and there was not a trouser leg to be seen or leather jacket making it really rather fresh. The only criticism is that it felt a little inconsistent. There were these beautiful pared back pieces then multiple layered clashing outfits. And although the layered pieces still worked, they were almost unnecessary as the design is there. The key pieces were definitely the quirky take on the boucle jacket and those pinafore style dresses. Monochrome with brights is a far better alternative to boring nautical and far more dramatic. Although I think I’ll leave the mad hatter hat for Johnny Depp. Kinder has been the one to watch for the last two seasons, and if he continues in such a fashion then he will be force to be reckoned with.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Krystof Strozyna
It was the one we’d all been waiting for yesterday evening; Krystof Strozyna , and he didn’t disappoint. His S/S10 presentation , held in the modern minimalist Portico Rooms at Somerset House , was a slow-paced catwalk of edgy black and nude pieces with exposed zip details, blurred prints, bright colours, and hugely oversized pastel pink bracelets.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Maria Francesca Pepe
Today I fell in love all over again. Maria Francesca Pepe’s S/S 10 presentation, which began with screening of her film Bathing Beauties for the collection, couldn’t have started any better. The dreamy footage showcasing her designs , modelled by Portia Freeman, among others , was completely enchanting as we watched the Bathing Beauties pose by topaz pools against the backdrop of a delicate piano.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Aminaka Wilmont
Tight, tight and super tight. Aminaka Wilmont went beyond body con and created a whole new level of cling. Yes there was Lycra, yet the cuts were short and tight but no it wasn’t slutty, instead it was beautiful and feminine. In a collection inspired by dancers and industrial spaces, soft colour palettes were set against laser cut pieces and their trademark prints. Butter soft leather added a further dimension with magnificent head pieces creating an ethereal feel. Tiny playsuits seemed less revealing thanks to fabulous draping. The longer pieces were sexed up with strategically draped shapes. And thanks to the earthy colour palette everything felt soft, girly and not intimidating. The leather was amazing, it was edgy yet wearable. And the embellished shoulder detail was divine. What’s more the models weren’t stick thin, glorified coat hangers. Rather they were curvy, still slim, but with boobs, hips and thighs and because of that the clothes oozed sex appeal. My favourite piece was the three quarter length sleeved number. It had a graceful elegance to it that was both wearable and chic. Also note the exaggerated shoulders, a look which will stay on trend right through Spring/Summer. So, could Aminaka Wilmont be the next Herve Leger? With cuts and shapes like these then why not?!
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Bora Aksu
This collection was inspired by the Oscar Wilde story ‘The Happy Prince’ and like the story I loved it. I agree that Bora Aksu is not for everyone, his designs are whimsical, incredibly girly and at times a little over the top. But this collection was more grown up, paired back and far more wearable, yet will still please Bora fans.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Maria Grachvogel
Think elegance, think sophistication, think class. They were the overruling themes at Maria Grachvogel’s Spring/Summer presentation. Held on Sloane Street yesterday, the collection was a far cry from the hot pants and corset dresses seen at her 2000 show, which featured guest model, Victoria Beckham. Grachvogel took us back to uptown 1964 with this wonderfully demure collection inspired by Hitchcock’s beautiful women who were seen as powerful and racy yet glamourous and serene.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week SS10: Ashley Isham
So lucky me managed to grab a front row seat at the Ashley Isham show today. The dress designer, who has showed at London Fashion Week nine times, put on a lively show with music from Kasabian and Florence and the Machine. It was clearly a show of two halves , for me, at least; the first was rather vivid, full of bold exotic prints, bright colours and jewels galore, whilst the second half took a gentle turn, and embraced a palette of soft nudes, creams and pale golds , toughened up with hints of black. The dresses may have varied, but the accessories remained the same throughout. Gold sky scraper platforms accompanied each piece, jewellery adorned the hair of almost every model, and gems were a statement fixture on many of his pieces.
Read MoreSass and Bide showing at London Fashion Week
Sass and Bide will celebrate its 10th anniversary at London Fashion week. The quirky Australian clothing label will return to the British fashion scene this September to pay tribute to the city where designers Sarah-Jane Clarke and Heidi Middleton founded the business idea. The designers said: “Ten years ago the concept for Sass and Bide was born in London. To be returning here ten years later, showing in a city that we love so much and that fuels our creativity, is really exciting. The Sydney-based pair , whose celebrity fans include Lindsay Lohan and Russell Brand – will host their show on Friday September 18 at 7.15pm in central London. As well as marking the label’s landmark birthday, London Fashion Week will also be celebrating its 25th anniversary. British Fashion Council chairman Harold Tillman said he and his colleagues are “delighted about the joint celebration. He explained: “We are delighted that Sass and Bide will show their collection in London this season. The company has built a strong international following over the past decade and they are a great addition to our schedule as we both celebrate landmark anniversaries.
Read MoreAmanda Wakeley to show at London Fashion Week!
Amanda Wakeley will show her new range at London Fashion Week. The British designer – who sold her label last December but bought it back in April – is thrilled with the progress the brand has made since she came back. She said: “I am delighted to return to the London Fashion Week schedule in September, especially during such an important season. Through buying back my label, I have confirmed my commitment to the continued development of Amanda Wakeley and showing again in London is a key step forward in that process.”
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: Horace AW09
While waiting in a crowded reception room for the Horace show, I found myself standing next to a group that perfectly encapsulated the Horace spirit – rainbow haired, pierced and dressed in fluid layers of jersey and denim, new generation punks that were a walking talking advert for the label. A favourite of Agyness Deyn, Horace’s AW09 collection was inspired by 18th century monks and featured a muted palette of greys with splashes of acidic colour and blocks of black and white.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: Giles AW09
Is there nothing that Giles Deacon can’t do? He has produced yet another stellar catwalk collection. The inspiration behind the show was Giles’ days at Art School, which is why he treated us to creative, punky finishes and expressive outfits. Fabulous hats by Stephen Jones just added to the drama, not forgetting those unbelievable, drool worthy thigh high boots by Christian Louboutin.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: House of Holland AW09
Henry Holland is a bit of an anomaly, a fashion journalist who made some t-shirts and happened to be best friends with the ‘It’ model of the moment, who then ended up with his own fashion line.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: PPQ AW09
You can always rely on PPQ to bring colour to Fashion Week. Their Autumn/Winter 09 palette is full of pistachios, oranges, royal blue and very bright reds. I think the best way to describe the collection is Park Lane Princess meets 60s style. The PPQ show is always a star-studded event and sure enough Alexa and Peaches were there, with Daisy, Alice and Pixie strutting their stuff down the runway. But the show ran so late, caused such bedlam that journalists were left really rather displeased. The show ran in Burlington Arcade, where PPQ currently has a pop up shop. This was one of the main criticisms of the presentation, there was no space. Looking at the models, it was surprising they didn’t trip over all those feet and handbags.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: House of BlueEyes AW09
Speechless, I was left speechless after this show. I’m still not entirely sure what to say. Firstly I will say that I do think Johnny Blue Eyes is a great stylist, and his work is creative and exciting. But as a designer, I just don’t get it.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: Victim AW09
Referencing Italian horror director Dario Argento’s ‘Phenomena’ (1985) in the pre text to ‘Victim Wonder’ designer Mei Hui Lei immediately gave us the impression that this was going to be a powerful runway of dread and seduction. ‘Did you ever wonder why there are so few beautiful villains?’ she questioned. In ‘Victim Wonder’, Mei Hui Lei presented her terrifying, yet irresistible muse: ‘Victim’s punk Lolita’.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: Olanic AW09
Expectations rose as a packed-out audience sipped their Bacardi’s, looking on at the lengthy preparation for Olanic’s AW09 presentation at London Fashion Week. Designer Nicola Taylor was tipped by Vogue as “one to watch” back in SS08 and returned to Vauxhall Fashion Scout after receiving rave reviews last season.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: Ana Sekularac AW09
Being late may be fashionable. But there’s nothing chic about opening your fashion installation 45 minutes late or for that matter still having a lady sweeping the floor, a man dousing models in hair spray and several men up ladders positioning lights, as guests wander in. Using a palette of just red, black, silver and grey, the collection showed off Sekularac’s eye for exceptionally cut clothes. Silhouettes were dramatic with high pointed shoulders on corseted dresses and suits, and pencil skirts with ruffles and pleats.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: Avsh Alom Gur AW09
Avsh Alom Gur is a man with a sense of humour. Strutting to a soundtrack of songs about money, his models wore dresses, catsuits and jackets with the words “Credit Crunch” in big sequin letters splashed across them. When the first dress came out, a muted pink corseted dress that flared into a huge puff ball, it seemed that we were in for a tame ride. But then came a burnt orange and green floral asymmetric dress with a puff ball sleeve padded with tulle and it was clear that Gur was having a bit of a laugh with this collection which the press release described as, “a collection resembling the mismatched wardrobe of a crazed society girl, drunk on a combination of heavy embroidery and showgirl sequins.”
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: William Tempest AW09
First of all, let’s just take a moment to appreciate what a great name William Tempest is. I mean, if ever there was a name to create a mystique around a person, surely Tempest would be it. And mystique there was. The sequin encrusted and ironically vintage NHS bespectacled rugby scrum that accumulated outside the show at Vauxhall Fashion Scout, was evidence enough at just how far and fast Tempest’s star has risen. Helped of course, in part, by the support of actress Emma Watson, who wore one of Tempest’s creations to the première of the film
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: Twenty8Twelve AW09
Twenty8Twelve was always going to be a wearable collection. Anyone who hoped otherwise must be sorely disappointed. But those who knew what to expect should be happy indeed. For their debut at London Fashion Week, Sienna and Savannah Miller delivered a collection of skinny jeans, tiny leather biker jackets, loose jersey tops, cropped trousers, tailored coats and a very sexy sparkly mini-dress as modelled by Jourdan Dunn. Boring? Perhaps. Actually yes. The truth is while many fashionista’s including myself could snap up many of the basics from the collection, this could easily have been an offering from Topshop.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: Luella AW09
Luella is one of those brands that are loved by all. With her wearable designs, that make everyone look stylish she is a fashion lover’s dream. She was therefore going to face a tough crowd. Her past few seasons have been so good, so inspiring that she was likely to face criticism no matter what she did. But for me, this was a very good collection. I liked the style, the attitude and the cuts. But I do love Luella’s use of colour, which was something that was missing from this collection. And I have also in the past taken to her geek chic sense of style, this is more straightforward cool, but cool nonetheless.
Read MoreLondon Fashion Week: Christopher Kane AW09
For the Spring/Summer 09 shows, I appeared to be one of the only people who wasn’t in awe of Kane’s offering. Yes I love those acid brights, and I am rather partial to a bit of leopard print. But I really didn’t take to the scalloped almost stegosaurus like edging and those monkey motifs frightened me. But this Autumn/Winter 09 collection, I really get the hype.
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